How To Benefit From LED Lighting In Your Kitchen
Really good kitchen lighting designs characteristically use a great deal of lighting - and we're not talking about putting a few extra roses on the ceiling Kitchen lighting requires all manner of different types of light to handle the requirements of many different zones. Just about the worst lighting solution for a kitchen is the use of bright fluorescent strip lights on the ceiling. Sure, they're unquestionably very bright - but cold, flat and likely to induce a headache in less time than it takes to soft boil an egg.
An obvious problem with central ceiling lights in a kitchen is that you inevitably create dark spots and are always standing in your own shadow. A common solution to this is to install banks of halogen down lights uniformly across the ceiling with additional lighting for worktops and hobs.
This does indeed work quite well, but brings its own set of problem: halogen lamps run at very high temperatures; they don't last well; and they are pretty much the most expensive possible way to light a kitchen. Over ninety percent of the cost of incandescent lighting in general (and halogen lamps in particular) is the electricity they consume.
This almost certainly accounts for the surge in popularity of low energy, low temperature LED kitchen lighting. With mains lighting (GU10 type fittings) it's just a matter of replacing existing spotlights with their LED counterparts. For low voltage fittings (MR16 type), first replace regular 12v transformers with one (or possibly more, according to the number of lights) 12v constant voltage LED driver before switching to LED equivalent light bulbs.
The three main aspects to consider when installing LED spotlights are: luminosity (brightness); colour temperature (how cool/blue or warm/yellow); and beam angle. Try to match these as close as possible to the characteristics of the halogen lamps you might otherwise have considered using.
We are used to measuring brightness in terms of wattage, but an LED light bulb will have a wattage rating at least ten percent that of it's equivalent incandescent or halogen bulb. Therefore, when replacing a 35w halogen lamp use an LED of 3w or above, and likewise replace a 50w with a 5w LED, etc.
How cool or warm a light appears is graded according to "color temperature". LED lights come in a wide range of white color temperatures (not to mention actual "colors"), but historically it was easier to manufacture blue LEDs and hence many cheap LEDs exhibit a cold/bluish tint. However, if you specify warm white (technically a temperature below 3,500 Kelvins) you should get a fair approximation of the white light normally created by halogen lamps.
A narrow beam angle, say 45 degrees, makes any light appear tighter and more contained to a defined spot, whereas a much wider 120 degrees spreads the light out evenly, eliminating glare and "hot-spots". Quite possibly the best LED spot light currently available that acts as a straightforward halogen replacement is the Sharp Zenigata.
One of the key factors to how any artificial light appears is not so much the light itself as the surface it shines on. To warm things up, point spot lighting at warmly colored areas (terracotta tiles, natural wood or simply a warmly painted wall). Alternatively, create dramatic effects by for example directing blue LEDs at fairly dark surfaces - blue LEDs reflected off blue, green, granite and steel can look stunning.
Mixing a variety of lights that offer different characteristics with a range of textures and colors makes it possible to obtain an extensive palette of effects for the various zones in your kitchen. LED strip lighting systems in particular offer all manner of options for accenting plinths, coving, worktops and pretty much anything else you could imagine. But at the end of the day though, once you're done playing with all the new ideas on offer, try and settle on just a few designs that really appeal - it's quite surprising how impressive even a bit of LED kitchen lighting appears.
An obvious problem with central ceiling lights in a kitchen is that you inevitably create dark spots and are always standing in your own shadow. A common solution to this is to install banks of halogen down lights uniformly across the ceiling with additional lighting for worktops and hobs.
This does indeed work quite well, but brings its own set of problem: halogen lamps run at very high temperatures; they don't last well; and they are pretty much the most expensive possible way to light a kitchen. Over ninety percent of the cost of incandescent lighting in general (and halogen lamps in particular) is the electricity they consume.
This almost certainly accounts for the surge in popularity of low energy, low temperature LED kitchen lighting. With mains lighting (GU10 type fittings) it's just a matter of replacing existing spotlights with their LED counterparts. For low voltage fittings (MR16 type), first replace regular 12v transformers with one (or possibly more, according to the number of lights) 12v constant voltage LED driver before switching to LED equivalent light bulbs.
The three main aspects to consider when installing LED spotlights are: luminosity (brightness); colour temperature (how cool/blue or warm/yellow); and beam angle. Try to match these as close as possible to the characteristics of the halogen lamps you might otherwise have considered using.
We are used to measuring brightness in terms of wattage, but an LED light bulb will have a wattage rating at least ten percent that of it's equivalent incandescent or halogen bulb. Therefore, when replacing a 35w halogen lamp use an LED of 3w or above, and likewise replace a 50w with a 5w LED, etc.
How cool or warm a light appears is graded according to "color temperature". LED lights come in a wide range of white color temperatures (not to mention actual "colors"), but historically it was easier to manufacture blue LEDs and hence many cheap LEDs exhibit a cold/bluish tint. However, if you specify warm white (technically a temperature below 3,500 Kelvins) you should get a fair approximation of the white light normally created by halogen lamps.
A narrow beam angle, say 45 degrees, makes any light appear tighter and more contained to a defined spot, whereas a much wider 120 degrees spreads the light out evenly, eliminating glare and "hot-spots". Quite possibly the best LED spot light currently available that acts as a straightforward halogen replacement is the Sharp Zenigata.
One of the key factors to how any artificial light appears is not so much the light itself as the surface it shines on. To warm things up, point spot lighting at warmly colored areas (terracotta tiles, natural wood or simply a warmly painted wall). Alternatively, create dramatic effects by for example directing blue LEDs at fairly dark surfaces - blue LEDs reflected off blue, green, granite and steel can look stunning.
Mixing a variety of lights that offer different characteristics with a range of textures and colors makes it possible to obtain an extensive palette of effects for the various zones in your kitchen. LED strip lighting systems in particular offer all manner of options for accenting plinths, coving, worktops and pretty much anything else you could imagine. But at the end of the day though, once you're done playing with all the new ideas on offer, try and settle on just a few designs that really appeal - it's quite surprising how impressive even a bit of LED kitchen lighting appears.
About the Author:
Abigail Monot personally recommends these additional articles relating specifically to kitchen lighting design and domestic LED lighting in general.
0 comments:
Post a Comment